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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. Yet, situated prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider significance of this culinary triumph.